Non-Insulated Fork Terminals with 3:1 Heat Shrink Tubing Kit

Choose the variant by both conductor gauge and screw size. The listed kit quantity includes the fork terminals plus the matching red and black tubing pieces.

Use these fork terminals where a removable screw connection is useful, including automotive accessory wiring, marine electrical panels, appliance repairs, control cabinets, and workshop wiring. A fork terminal can be installed without fully removing the screw. For high-vibration joints or connections where the fastener may loosen, a closed ring terminal is usually the safer choice.

1. Match the terminal barrel to the conductor: AWG 22-16, 16-14, or 12-10.
2. Match Fork #8 or Fork #10 to the screw or stud size; do not select the fork opening by wire gauge alone.
3. Use the supplied 3:1 tube assigned to that variant so it recovers tightly over the crimped barrel.

1. Disconnect power, cut the conductor cleanly, and slide the correct heat-shrink tube onto the wire.
2. Strip only enough insulation for the conductor to fill the terminal barrel.
3. Insert the wire fully and crimp the barrel with a die made for non-insulated terminals.
4. Pull-test the crimp, position the fork under the correct screw, and tighten to the equipment manufacturer's specification.
5. Center the tubing over the barrel and insulation edge. Heat evenly with a heat gun until it has fully recovered, then allow it to cool before use.

Do not use an open flame, and do not use these terminals where a closed ring, sealed connector, or manufacturer-specified termination is required.

Does this kit include insulated fork terminals?

No. The fork terminals are non-insulated tin-plated copper terminals. Separate red and black 3:1 heat-shrink tubes are included to insulate and protect each completed crimp.

How do I choose between Fork #8 and Fork #10?

Match the fork opening to the equipment screw or stud. Then choose the barrel by conductor AWG. Both measurements must match the connection.

Can I crimp these terminals with ordinary pliers?

Use a crimping tool and die intended for non-insulated terminals. Ordinary pliers do not form a controlled barrel crimp and can produce an unreliable connection.

How should I shrink the tubing?

Use a controlled heat gun, keep the airflow moving, and rotate the joint until the tubing has recovered uniformly. Stop heating once the tube is fully formed around the barrel and wire insulation.